Changing Gearbox / Centre Diff Oil and Rear Diff Oil.

		Hydraulic Lifter Change		Click to enlarge
		This is one of the more common problems associated with the I5 engine and usually occurs anytime around 100000 miles. If your Hydraulic Lifters are getting noisy when starting the car or at idle then maybe it's time to replace them, I did mine at the same time as changing my cambelt. Once you have got the belt off the cam pulley and the cam pulley bolt is loosened off, you then need to remove the cam cover so things like plug leads, throttle cable, ISV's need to be removed or moved out of the way to make getting the cam cover out easier. After it's removal then you need to undo the camshaft's bearing caps a hhalf turn at a time so avoiding any chance of the cam bending, i would start in the middle and work out. Once all the nuts are off take each cap off noteing it's oreintation on the cam and from which bearing they came off, I even went as far as putting four pieces of paper on the workbench numbered 1 to 4 just so I got it all back together correctly. Now pull the cam out of it's bearings in the head and try not to disturb the distributor drive otherwise the ignition timing will be out. Now pull out the lifters and replace them with the new ones, you may need a big pair of pliers to gat a grip on them as the are quite oily, replace the cam seal with a new one (lubricate first with engine oil not grease), and then reinstall everything the way it came out, carefully installing the cam bearing caps, if you crack a cap buy a new head!! You will also require a new cam cover seal. You will then need to put the cam cover back on and all the other bits and pieces that got taken off in the process. It would now be a good idea to check the ignition timing as one final check, this very easy to get out of sync. Start the car and connect up a timing light and look through the hole in the bellhousing at your nicely painted marks. If the car won't start, slacken the distributor off and rotate so that the mark on the lip of the body (cap removed) is in line with the centre of the rotor arm, this is TDC and the car should now run, go back and set the timing with a timing light at between 17 and 19 degrees BTDC, there is a mrak on the flywheel to the right of the "0" deg or TDC mark, some flywheels even have a whole range of markings making things really easy. Hopefully by now all is running well, just keep an eye out for coolant leaks. If you have not done this before then do take your time, it's really not a difficult job to do maybe time consuming but you will save a lot on what a dealer will charge.

[Back to the Maintainance]